Proton Satria (Kim Ryan)

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KDRYAN
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Post by KDRYAN » Mon, 29 Dec 2008, 05:25

I have just road tested my reconversion today of my Proton Satria. I originally converted this vehicle two and a half years ago as a 72vdc system. Because of the hilly terain near my home in Cairns I required more power and speed I have now increased the volts to 120 DC. I have also removed the gearbox and now the vehicle is direct drive via the front wheels using a RAV4 rear diff @ 3.1:1 ratio.

Vehicle Specs:
1997 Proton Satria
Motor: Chinese 9.5" , 8.5kw cont 80kg
Controller: Curtis 1221C
Batterys: AGM 85ah
Charger: Chinese 15amp pulse charger
Performance: 0 to 60kph in 18 seconds. (moderate acceleration 0-20kph and there after very good.)

Unable to post images now, will post later.


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Post by TropicalEV » Mon, 29 Dec 2008, 17:21

Hi Kim,
      sounds like a very practical conversion. Your idea of using the rav4 diff is very interesting. I've been wondering about something like that. I can't wait to see some pics! I'm in Mission Beach and there is another guy down this way that converted a quad bike for the farm. Maybe we need a FNQ chapter of AEVA! Image I'm a while away from a conversion though Image
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Post by acmotor » Mon, 29 Dec 2008, 19:08

Far North Queensland - go for it !
or maybe FNQ stands for Fun No Questions !
Sorry about that... it is the festive season after all. Image

Satria sounds good.
What vehicle mass did you end up with ?

Look forward to some pics. Image
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KDRYAN
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Post by KDRYAN » Tue, 30 Dec 2008, 00:05

Proton Satria conversion photos
ImageImageImage

I can now move on to reinstating the airconditioning (FNQ requirement)
using a PM 2.5hp dc motor.

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KDRYAN
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Post by KDRYAN » Tue, 30 Dec 2008, 00:14

In reply to ACMOTOR the weight of vehicle is now between 985 and 1000kg I will have the vehicle reweighed after the air conditioning is up and running.
Kim

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Post by Rattrap » Tue, 30 Dec 2008, 00:19

What i'm really interested to hear Kim is how it performs on highways & up n down hills.
It looks like the Emotor only just fit, what sort of clearance does the motor have between it & the front grill?

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Post by KDRYAN » Tue, 30 Dec 2008, 04:26

Distance between the grille and motor is approxamately 4 inchs. ( see photo) I had the option to stand the motor/diff vertically with a 40mm bonnet scoop to get the motor right out of the water/dirt/grime area but I opted to put it at a angle of 30 degrees from the horizontal.

The vehicle has only just hit the road so some figures need confirming, but it appears 80kph is a comfortable cruising speed although I have had the car up to 100kph, very sluggish on hills below 25kph becomes very zippy at about 40.

I am in the process of designing and building a water cooled heatsink for the controller as I appear to have a slight problem with the controller getting to hot for my liking.I will also be using the cooling system water to cool the airconditioning condenser(tube and shell type) I work in the radiator industry so this mod is right up my alley.
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Post by moemoke » Tue, 30 Dec 2008, 05:08

Interesting conversion KDRYAN, did you have to get special drive shafts made or does the Rav4 diff bolt straight in, if you know wha I mean.
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KDRYAN
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Post by KDRYAN » Tue, 30 Dec 2008, 06:18

Hi Meomoke
It took a lot of looking to find this diff, it has flange fittings to couple up cv shafts, large mounting points at rear of housing and front bolt up points at nose of diff unit. You could say it almost fitted right in.
I used the cv female cups from the original transaxle, welded them to a machined plate with a small boss to suit flange on diff. The drivers side axle was unaltered, the passengers side axle was shortened slightly, the axle was shortened by cutting the shaft and rejoining with a sleeve, this can be seen in the previous post photo. ( could be considered a bit agricultural, but it will never break)

The photo below shows the axle flange fittings well and adapter to attach motor.
Image

Regards
Kim

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Post by antiscab » Tue, 30 Dec 2008, 06:29

now theres a photo ive seen before,
i take it Goombi has lent a hand with this project then?

conversion looks good.

if you did have to get special drieshafts made, where did u get them made?
im running into a similar problem myself

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KDRYAN
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Post by KDRYAN » Tue, 30 Dec 2008, 06:53

Yes Goombi and I have the same type motor and he was interested in what I was up to.

The CV shafts were not specially made, to shorten just simply put ia a lathe, cut, a sleeve made and welded together.30 minutes work. The correct way would be to have the spline recut/lenghtened and remove 15mm of axle. Because we are not talking about great power/torque here I opted for the cheaper and faster track.

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Post by weber » Tue, 17 Feb 2009, 22:46

Kim,

That's brilliant.

Can you please show us a photo of what's inside the tube that joins the motor casing to the diff casing? i.e. how did you couple the motor-shaft to the diff input-shaft in such a small space?

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Post by KDRYAN » Wed, 18 Feb 2009, 14:58

Hi Weber

Unfortunately I failed to take any photos of the coupling components. But in a brief description, the motor has a splined shaft on which I made a flanged coupling half. This flanged coupling mates to the diff flange. The coupling assembly bolts to the diff flange and the motor slides into the coupling. There is only .020" clearance between the flange outer and the adapter tube. This compactness is only due to the fact that the motor has a splined shaft. It would not be possible to keep it as compact on a keyed shaft motor.

Regards
Kim

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Post by gttool » Thu, 19 Feb 2009, 03:01

Good to hear that your cars up and running,
Talked to you before christmas about your spare controller which andrew bought
Have made water cooling plates for the curtis controllers if you want some info ask
Geoff

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Post by KDRYAN » Sat, 21 Feb 2009, 19:04

Hi Gttool
Thanks for the info re controller cooling plates. I have made my own water cooled controller heatsink, comprising of a alloy radiaror, fan and waterpump as a self contained unit and a cooler plate made up from turbo intercooler tubes. The unit is still untested at present, I have been sidlined by flood water and work. Some photos of the components.

Radiator, fan and pump asembly.
Image

Base plate, cooling heatsink plate, controller.
Image

Heatsink tubing, 38, 50, & 75 wide by 8mm
Image

The fan and waterpump use less than 0.5amps combined.

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Post by Electrocycle » Sat, 21 Feb 2009, 19:16

water cooler looks good!
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Post by gttool » Sat, 21 Feb 2009, 19:31

whats the radiator waterpump from ????

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KDRYAN
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Post by KDRYAN » Sat, 21 Feb 2009, 21:18

The radiator assembly is from a computer cooling system. 12volt

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Post by HeadsUp » Tue, 03 Mar 2009, 19:06

beautiful work . love the diff- motor setup

may i ask where you sourced the aluminium extrusions for the heatsink from ???

good work mate.


PS , did the original axles have a telescoping spline , and was there enough travel in the spline ?

the diff looks higher than what the original would have been , therefore as the suspension moves up and down , a greater amount of travel will be required in the sliding part of the axles as they lengthen / shorten


bit off topic , but if anyone is interested , when setting up universal joints or CV joints , it is ideal to have at least some offset in the angle between the two shafts , as this allows the universals to wear evenly and also to spread out the grease inside the bearing.
Last edited by HeadsUp on Tue, 03 Mar 2009, 08:51, edited 1 time in total.

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KDRYAN
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Post by KDRYAN » Wed, 04 Mar 2009, 02:16

Hi HeadsUp
The alloy extrusion tube is intercooler tube. This tubing is not normally available, but as I work in the radiator industry I was able to access a small quantity from the manufacturers for testing. I intend to purchase more if this cooler works ok. My proton should be back on the road next week.

I am modding the brakes again. Initally when I converted the vehicle, the brake system was modified to operate with no vacuum. ( as in earlier vehicles without power brakes) Although this worked well, there was too much distortion of the firewall due to extra effort applied, which would have failed eventually. I have now going back to standard arrangement using a vacuum pump running of the main battery pack (120vdc)

Travel on the cv joints is approx 30mm. The diff in the Proton is the same height/position as the standard diff. The photo you are refering to in this thread, the vehicle is on jack stands and the front wheels are hanging down at there lower most position giving the appearance that the diff sits higher.

Regards
Kim

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KDRYAN
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Post by KDRYAN » Sun, 10 May 2009, 16:59

This vehicle is for sale $6000.00. Refer to original post for vehicle details. Another casualty of the financial times.

Regards
Kim

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Post by Mesuge » Sat, 30 May 2009, 02:58

KDRYAN wrote: I have also removed the gearbox and now the vehicle is direct drive via the front wheels using a RAV4 rear diff @ 3.1:1 ratio.

Vehicle Specs:
1997 Proton Satria
Motor: Chinese 9.5" , 8.5kw cont 80kg
Controller: Curtis 1221C
Batterys: AGM 85ah
Charger: Chinese 15amp pulse charger
Performance: 0 to 60kph in 18 seconds. (moderate acceleration 0-20kph and there after very good.)


Never seen FWD + rear diff direct drive method in such relative low power output config (~9kW cont.). Very interesting, thanks for your post..
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