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Post by Electrocycle » Sat, 26 Feb 2011, 00:18

divided at the disc, or multiplied at the wheels :)
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Post by EV2Go » Sat, 26 Feb 2011, 02:43

:?:
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Post by Electrocycle » Sat, 26 Feb 2011, 13:32

The speedo pickup would also detect holes, so you could just use your park brake disc for both purposes.
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Post by EV2Go » Sat, 26 Feb 2011, 17:18

:?:
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Post by EV2Go » Sun, 27 Feb 2011, 04:27

:?:
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Post by Electrocycle » Sun, 27 Feb 2011, 04:36

Trantorques do seem to work pretty well. It's basically like a taperlock but with a single nut to tighten in.
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Post by EV2Go » Mon, 28 Feb 2011, 06:01

:?:
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Post by EV2Go » Mon, 28 Feb 2011, 06:06

:?:
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Post by Electrocycle » Mon, 28 Feb 2011, 16:14

Sounds like you need some sort of splined coupling
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Post by EV2Go » Mon, 28 Feb 2011, 16:24

:?:
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Post by EV2Go » Tue, 01 Mar 2011, 23:28

:?:
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Post by T1 Terry » Wed, 02 Mar 2011, 00:11

The bolts are already through the coupling as you slide the motor and torque tube onto the diff. The bolts are located and tack welded to a plate at the motor end so they can't spin and some form of retainer like a circlip stops the plate from sliding back toward the motor. This way the threaded section of the Ubrako bolts are ready for the self locking nuts to be fitted through the small inspection hole in the bottom of the torque tube.
The fitter who's job it is to put the nuts in through the hole and start them on the threads has visions of the monkey and the cookie and realises why the hole is in the bottom of the tube when he drops the nut Image Been there, done that, not volunteering.

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Post by Speedily » Wed, 02 Mar 2011, 02:12

EV2Go wrote: Speak up or forever hold your peace


dont weld the bolts on :)

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Post by EV2Go » Wed, 02 Mar 2011, 03:01

:?:
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Post by EV2Go » Wed, 02 Mar 2011, 04:02

:?:
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Post by T1 Terry » Wed, 02 Mar 2011, 11:59

I'll try to explain my idea further.Image
Picture a plate a the thickness a little less than the head section of the Ubrako bolts, the hex cut out of the centre to fit the outer of the Transtorque and cut to the outer diameter of the coupling. Holes for the Ubrako bolts drilled big enough for the heads to fit through the plate. The heads of the Ubrako bolts are tack welded to the plate. The plate and bolts are fitted to the coupling before it's fitted to the motor. This now serves a double purpose, it holds the outer of the Transtorque so the centre can be tightened and stops the Ubrako bolts from spinning when the coupling is bolted up. I doubt if there is enough room for a circlip and groove on the outer section of the Transtorque hex to keep the plate located but a coat of silicon between the plate and coupling should be enough to keep it located during assembly. As far as needing to put a spanner on both ends of the bolt to get more torque....tightened from one end or the other makes no difference to the final clamping effort. Special single use self locking nuts are available in different styles so secondary lock nuts are not needed. It may be necessary to make a plate to fit the diff end of the coupling with a nut welded in the centre to be bolted up with the Ubrako bolts and standard nuts so a torque wrench and socket can be used to gain the required 225nm tightening for the Transtorque. It would be a lot easier than trying to get a crowsfoot spanner and torque wrench into the space between the coupling and the motor and a lot cheaper than a crowsfoot spanner that size. You will probably need to cut a piece of 1/2" plate to make a holding tool for the centre nut of the transtorque, I doubt there would be enough room for an 1 3/4" open ender in there, finding one to borrow could also be a challenge.

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Post by EV2Go » Wed, 02 Mar 2011, 13:04

:?:
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Post by T1 Terry » Wed, 02 Mar 2011, 17:07

There's always more than one way to skin a cat but there's also an easy way and a hard way. The torque wrench on the plate bolted to the coupling would still work, a suitable rated torque wrench can be hired cheaply. Doing the bolts up and undoing them later from the diff end would be a long slow process. The flange would be very close to the pinion oil seal so the bolts would need to be through the flange plate before the pinion nut was tightened. Then the 2 parts would need to be offered up and each bolt started and tightened a few turns, then the next etc till the unit was tight, all through the little hole. If you designed a coupling like that in heavy industry the fitters would have you lynched before lunch.

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Post by seligtype3 » Thu, 03 Mar 2011, 01:42

Your diagrams are great! Nonetheless I'm glad to not have this conundrum on my hands. Looks confusing. That said I will need some sort of flywheel/motor shaft coupling but hopefully a simpler situation to solve. The Trantorque product looks interesting. Priced it?
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Post by EV2Go » Fri, 04 Mar 2011, 00:14

:?:
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Post by EV2Go » Sat, 05 Mar 2011, 00:55

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Post by EV2Go » Sun, 06 Mar 2011, 06:18

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Post by EV2Go » Thu, 10 Mar 2011, 00:13

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Post by EV2Go » Fri, 11 Mar 2011, 01:36

:?:
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Post by johnfriartuck » Sat, 12 Mar 2011, 19:04

hi ive just come off ebay looking for bits and pieces and theres a Yamaha fzr 250 1989 model with a sick motor(piston with hole in it he thinks) hes got the usual $5.00 for a bolt thing going but he says he wants it gone for anyone interested he say make an offer so if anyone is interested go into bike parts/accessories yamaha its got one day nine hours to go and is in canberra    john

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