AEVA Forums

So you don't have a key, you use a PIN instead - Cool! Sounds like you might want an electrical latch, so that once pressed it stays pressed, until power is disconnected. So you press the drive button once, but can drive until you turn the car off. This could either be a latching button, or a moment...

Re: TRACTION CIRCUIT v1 Don't forget that NCOP14 requires some kind of interlock to stop you driving away while plugged in. This drive button... Is it something that you need to switch off at the end of each trip? Or does that relay let go once the ignition is turned off? (I'm not familiar with a "P...

Thanks for the feedback, it has made me think... Yes, Ok, I need to experiment to see about the precharge. I was assuming that the driver would know to leave it in ACC for a few seconds, but it is a good idea to assume nothing of the driver... The way that the key rotates through ACC means that it w...

Circuit Diagram Be prepared to be amazed by my drawing skills: http://forums.aeva.asn.au/uploads/1844/Brumbys_CCT_Diagram_S.jpg The two emergency stop switches are to be mounted on the battery boxes. #2 is under the bonnet, #1 is mounted inside the cab, at the front of the tray. So in an emergency,...

Ok, here it is! http://forums.aeva.asn.au/uploads/1844/Warming_Pad.JPG In the photo you can see an orange battery warming pad that I bought via ebay from America. There is another pad in the foreground, sandwitched between two aluminium sheets. The pads have no thermostat, so you can also see the Ch...

Reply from Kostov: Hello, Indeed the switch closes when brushes/comm overheat so you can attach a light. The sensor has no connection to the main voltage so should be safe :) Here is the latest drawing where the normally open thermal cut off sensor is same like yours: http://kostov-motors.com/files/...

Has it got a tacho output? and a thermistor output?

No, neither of those. I would have liked a tacho...

I've measured them all right, they measure open circuit - to everything! My guess is that the wires on the motor are switched together when the motor gets too hot, as suggested by evric. I'm thinking that these two wires are not the "thermo switch" on the diagram, since that only has one contact, an...

G'day Jem, Since you were posting about Kostovs on my page, I thought I'd better visit yours. Looks like we started (at least posting) at around the same time. I thought I was obsessed, but I haven't put in 1/10th of the planning effort that you have! My planned motor/battery mount so far is a singl...

Intriguing. My 17R that arrived this morning has a solid rear with 4 mounting holes. Smaller BCD than the front but very usable. We must have different models?! Hmm... Some photos are called for: http://forums.aeva.asn.au/uploads/1844/Kostov17R_Front.JPG http://forums.aeva.asn.au/uploads/1844/Kosto...

Could a suitable plate be made to fit the rear end plate and holes drilled and tapped simliar to the front housing ones? Not easily. The rear end is a thin sheet metal cover over a plastic fan. Any such plate would need to attach to the four bolt holes that hold the cover on, but wouldn't want to c...

Other than the four on the front face, the only mounting hole is the one at the top with the eye screwed into it. I'm thinking that I might use this one - put the motor upside-down, and run a bar underneath it. The motor would be high enough above the bar that I could put in an engine mount between ...

Yes I did try on a high resistance range. Also tried swapping the leads in case there was a diode in there somewhere. It is a bit of a nuisance to test this feature! I don't think I'll have any overheating issues though, it's not like I'm using it to race or anything. I'll just hook it up as a norma...

My motor has arrived! There are two small wires coming out of it, which I have decided are probably the "termal cut off" shown on the diagram. Kostov 17R diagram These wires are showing open circuit, so presumably they connect if the motor gets too hot. I wonder if I can find the wire that supplies ...

Thanks for the encouragement! I've been reading posts in this forum for some time, and I think that early posts from Thalass gave me the idea of converting the Brumby, although he hasn't done his yet... Then Goombi showed how it could be done. I considered buying the Stealth Brumby at one stage, but...

Yes, plan on keeping the clutch, for easier shifting of gears as suggested. It also makes the mounting of the motor that much easier. Haven't heard of a brass button clutch before, I'll have to look into that. you will have room under the tray for battery's climb under and have a look There is a bit...

The adapter plate and coupling looks easier than I imagined. As far as I can tell, I don't even have to remove the gearbox. http://forums.aeva.asn.au/uploads/1844/Left_Small.JPG http://forums.aeva.asn.au/uploads/1844/Right_Small.JPG I'm no mechanic, but I'm calling these parts (from left to right): ...

DKEL and I spent a couple of weekends (thanks Duane!) and removed the following: 10.5kg fuel tank (empty) + 1.3 misc fuel related bits + 8.1 exhaust - front + 4.1 exhaust - mid + 4.4 exhaust - rear + 1.8 other bits + 17.7 spare wheel, jack, bracket + 10.6 radiator (full) + 100 engine (estimate - my ...

Ok, I've looked your reply for ages Matt, trying to figure this out. See if I have it correct. if you have a 140Ah AGM battery, and used 35Ah in an hour, then let it sit for 8 hours, you end up with remaining capacity somewhere around the C/5 capacity - the 35Ah you have used. When you say the remai...

This is going to sound like a retrograde step but if you must use lead acid batteries I'd recommend flooded cell batteries. NOW you mention it! But anyway, there were a few advantages that swayed my thinking: 1. Space - AGMS can be mounted on their sides, which fits my vehicle better. 2. Lower main...

Ok, I've been doing research on Lead-Acid batteries, and thought I'd better share my results. This looks like a good place to post them! Most of the batteries are AGM. I am confident of the specs, but not the prices. Lots of the prices are from websites, and might change if you actually got a quote....

Yes, I'm working on the calculation here - (written by Matt!) which gives me a theoretical range of about 60km. So driving 30km into work for the day should use half my charge? The C20 value of the battery is 140Ah. So if I have travelled 30km, presumably this means that there is a C20 value of 70Ah...

I will have a bank of 12 x 12V 140Ah AGM lead-acid batteries. 12x12 = 144V. 144x140 = 20kWh. I will need to charge my vehicle in about 8 hours. But it won’t be fully discharged at that time. I’m guessing, but I think it’ll be about 50% discharged. So I need to charge 70Ah over 8 hours. 70/8 = 9 Amps...

Thanks for those suggestions! My battery box will be in the tray of a ute, and there is a possibility of it getting wet. So the electric blanket is out on that count. The aquarium heater is an interesting idea. There is a good range on eBay, including a stainless steel one. Because they are so compa...

I’m looking at ideas for battery boxes. I need to house 12 AGM batteries in my vehicle, and I’m concerned that they will get cold. The specifications for the batteries are all quoted at 25°C. If I’m using this vehicle for commuting, then the batteries would never be that warm in the morning. In wint...