AEVA Forums

I think the way to go is for me to sell pcbs with the micro already mounted and programmed! That would solve the socket problem. I wondered about that, but how would it go for the customer mounting the other components? It would be fine for hand soldering, but would it work for reflow? Would the mi...

Perhaps you could supply some parts of the system leaving a buyer to do the labour intensive work. For example, you could supply a compiled hex file custom set for a customer's needs. And let the buyer do the board assembly. One thing that would make it easier would be to supply the microcontroller...

I must say I am surprised by what appears to be a total lack of interest in this project! Hello Nevilleh, I thought I'd pitch in here with my "well done" and "thankyou" for all your work on this project, and for putting it out there where anyone can use it! You have spent a lot of time and effort g...

And an update on the range and economy: Last time I drove I flattened the battery, and set the Zeva fuel gauge driver zero point. So this time I drove into our local city (200m lower than home), and at the end of the 30km trip the gauge was sitting exactly on half.   I topped it up to just under ful...

Well, I'm finally legal! I took the Brumby in to the Engineer again the other day to have my modification plate fitted. Wasn't until then that I found out I had to take it to an Approved Inspection Station as well. So the process in Tasmania is: 1. Apply to the Transport Department to get approval f...

My Shannons insurance costs $462 per year, with an agreed value of $8000. They agreed to go up to $8000 over the phone, but said that a higher value could be negotiated if a Shannons representative visited. As we have no local Shannons representative within the range of the vehicle, he said that the...

For details and pics of the Brumby, go to the Members Machines section of the forum, then 4Springs' Brumby . It is a bit all over the place, but hopefully you can work it out! I ended up using 12 x 12V 140AH AGM batteries. 7 in the tray, 2 underneath the tray & 3 under the bonnet. As suggested by ev...

Hello Gregted, Have a look at the NCOP 14 document here: www.infrastructure.gov.au (search for "NCOP14"). This is the National Code of Practice guidelines for converting to Electric Drive. I found it a really good document. The requirements state that the converted weight must be not more than the o...

I assembled the clutch disc and pressure plate. It took a while to machine up a piece of steel to serve as the centring guide for the clutch disc, and it was hard work tightening the screws and bolts with a 6mm Allen key; I had to clamp the key's longer arm to a steel bar, and even then the shorter...

I dropped off the Brumby to the Engineer yesterday, and picked it up again today. His workshop is 30 km away, so this is my longest trip so far. He seemed happy enough with it, except he would like to see a bit more restraint added to the batteries in the rear battery box. This makes sense, there is...

"Is the HAZV traction battery system adequately isolated from the vehicle chassis so that leakage current does not exceed 20 mA?" I haven't seen how people comply with this condition. Can anyone fill me in on how most people do this? Are you asking how do people measure their leakage current? The w...

Just going through the process of Engineer inspection now. So far he has just had a quick look, and asked that I get the 240VAC wiring inspected by an electrician. He is after a piece of paper that states it complies with AS/NZS 3001:2001 - Electrical Installations - Relocatable Premises. I'm not su...

What makes you think the EVWorks orange corro is any different from the usual heavy duty stuff? 'cos I bought some! I bought it before I knew about heavy or medium duty conduit, and used it in my vehicle. When I ran out I went to a local electrical supplies shop and asked for some more. The stuff t...

I'm not sure if you actually want any flexible orange conduit, but it was mentioned... The stuff they sell locally is "heavy duty", because it is made to go underground. If you want the more flexible stuff, they only sell it in grey. But EVWorks has flexible orange conduit here: Conduit The other pr...

Hopefully, he will change to Li cells once he sees the light!! Light seen, but it seemed a long way off at the time. http://forums.aeva.asn.au/smileys/smiley19.gif Costs more money (which means more risk if I damage them), more trouble to set up, not sure if an EV was going to suit us anyway... My ...

Um, I think there's a decimal point misplaced there somewhere. Yes, I think I've fixed up all my mistakes now http://forums.aeva.asn.au/smileys/smiley9.gif So in NZ electricity is cheaper and petrol is dearer. Presumably everyone is converting to EVs! I can tell people I have saved X amount per km,...

18.6! That would be nice. No, the pumpkin was not attached, but it was far from typical driving conditions. I was stopping every 2km or so to turn around and go back. It will be very interesting to see how different it is once I'm allowed to take it for a "normal" drive. 32 kWh x $0.25 = $8 per 100 ...

The silver thing is the DC-DC converter. There is no rubber seal under the bonnet. It is a bit hard to see, but the bit above it is actually a gutter. Water runs down from the bonnet to the left or right. I have nervously driven through light rain, and watched carefully where the water went. I then ...

1st long trip: 37km Approx 1 hr. I was driving up and down our road (2 km), and stopping frequently to check temperatures. The voltage of the pack after this time was: 143.5VDC after approx 2 mins. 145V after approx 7 mins 145.8 after approx 15 mins It took 12 hrs to charge. I had a meter on the 240...

Engineer came around last night, seemed happy with all that he saw. He would like a certificate from an Electrician to confirm that my 240V(AC) wiring is up to scratch. Apparently there is a similar requirement for caravans, ambulances etc. I then need to take it into the Engineer's workshop in Laun...

Update time: I decided that disconnecting the zener regulators was not worth it. My cost benefit analysis went something like this: Cost: Disconnecting 12 terminals that are held together with loctite, cleaning the bolts up before re-assembling them again. Benefit: It would be interesting to see wha...

My conversion is a manual car, with the gearbox and clutch all unchanged. To drive it: 1. "Start" the motor by turning the key (nothing happens except a contactor goes clunk). 2. Push in the clutch and put the car into a gear. 1st or 2nd normally. let out the clutch. 3. Push down on the accellerator...

On the question of feed-in tarrifs: A feed in tarrif is the price that your electricity company pays you for the electricity you generate. It will be in cents per kW (or units if you like). A gross feed-in tarrif means that they pay you for every kW you make. So if you make 3kW, and the gross feed-i...

Yes, I'd agree with Johny there. It is important to keep within the switch ratings, it is easy to imagine that the DC-DC converter might want to supply its fully rated current output if your battery is flat and you are running accessories as well. You don't want a fire under the dashboard! So if you...

Your two scenarios: 1. A switch in one of the lines between the traction pack and the DC-DC converter. It shouldn’t matter which one (+ve or –ve). Pro: This switch will turn off the converter at all times. Con: You are putting a switch in the high voltage line, and so you may be taking high voltage ...