Simons FSM Niki video

Post up a thread for your EV. Progress pics, description and assorted alliteration
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Simon
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Post by Simon » Sat, 20 Sep 2008, 06:42

I uploaded the video of my car that I showed at the meeting the other night. You can watch it here
Last edited by Simon on Fri, 19 Sep 2008, 20:57, edited 1 time in total.

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Post by acmotor » Sat, 20 Sep 2008, 07:00

Great picture quality Simon.
Congradulations on the conversion !
Thanks for the presentation Wed night !

Can you throw in a commentary as well ?

Check eparts138 on ebay for a DC-DC 12V 10A $16 +$16 post, may be all you need.
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Post by Simon » Sat, 11 Oct 2008, 06:02

Thanks Acmotor.
Don't know about a commentary as well.. but here is another video anyway.
Acceleration testing
Would that DC-DC convertor work with 96volts?

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Post by acmotor » Sat, 11 Oct 2008, 06:25

First thought is then, why retain the gearbox ?

Do you have a record of the battery current during each run ?

Next test would be gradeability or a kerb climb test.

The DC-DC when switched to 240VAC input still operates down to 100VDC in red suzi (does a good job sucking down the Danfoss capacitor bank when contactors open).
It can be switched to 110VAC input so may work down to as little as 45V.


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Post by Simon » Sat, 11 Oct 2008, 06:36

No recording of the battery current at this stage, but I think the effeciency of the motor would be worse at the high amps required to drive in 4th gear all the time. Curbs should be no problem in 4th but I haven't tried that or any steep inclines yet.

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Post by vince » Tue, 14 Oct 2008, 11:35

in this instance would you share your thoughts on quote"why retain the gearbox" also-what would have to be done to the drive axle gears if anything?thanks

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Post by BjBlaster » Tue, 14 Oct 2008, 20:32

Looks good! Where did you get your Curtis from?
If it's stuck, force it. If it breaks it needed replacing anyway - bj's shed

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Post by Richo » Wed, 15 Oct 2008, 01:21

Isn't the gearbox integrated with the diff?
So removing the gearbox means you loose the diff.
So this would mean you would need two motors.
Which increases cost/complexity.

I think the gearbox was kept to keep the size of the motor down.
There isn't much room lengthwise to fit a bigger motor in.
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Post by Simon » Wed, 15 Oct 2008, 20:22

Yes the gearbox and diff are one unit.
And you are right about there not being any room for a bigger motor in the Advanced DC motor range! Even the K91-4003 that I used had to get the shaft cut down to fit it in.

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Post by Simon » Wed, 15 Oct 2008, 20:26

>Looks good! Where did you get your Curtis from?

Thanks, I got the Curtis controller and Potbox from Bylong industries in Sydney.

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Post by Simon » Wed, 15 Oct 2008, 20:44

vince wrote: in this instance would you share your thoughts on quote"why retain the gearbox" also-what would have to be done to the drive axle gears if anything?thanks


A gearbox in an electric car is not essential there are a few cars such as Ian's MX5 and Acmotor's Suzuki and others that are direct drive to the diff. The advantage of removing the gearbox is weight reduction, more space for batteries and higher drivetrain effeciency.
In my car removing the gearbox would be harder to do than a typical rear wheel drive because the diff and gearbox are one unit.

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Post by vince » Thu, 16 Oct 2008, 13:34

I am refering to a rear wheel drive -any rwd-a min/max ratio rearend formula must already be available or comparables related to this setup so a beginner can go shopping for goodies ie;motor (ac of course)say 1238 curtis et.I am truly impressed by the amount of knowledge at AEVA but surprised by the lack of info on converting to a GET AROUND TOWN EV!I can see the brains and the muscle but i cant see the practical side if someone wants to convert a street car to ev.It seems to me that cheap clean practical isnt taken into consideration when it speaks of the EV GRIN!!!

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Post by Simon » Sun, 03 May 2009, 08:16

Well after having my car sitting for 4 weeks I have got some new chargers to replace the failing Projecta's.
And thanks to antiscab I now have a nice kwh meter. Here are some much anticipated (well for me anyway   Image ) power consumption results.
1st charge 7.2km / 1.22kwh 169.44wh/km at the wall or 57.06 km/l
2nd charge 7.6km / 1.04kwh 136.8wh/km at the wall or 70.6km/l!

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Post by antiscab » Mon, 04 May 2009, 08:18

very impressive energy usage there simon.

the wide variation can be partly accounted by the amount of power your chargers use floating the batteries after a full charge.

i was talking to another member the other day (who also bought one of those meters) and his chargers use 1-2kwh/day when they aren't actually charging. He uses the same chargers you use, and has a 144v system

on my own scooter, i see this aswell, just on a smaller scale (small enough that the timer i used to prevent idle waste used just as much power as it saved).

Matt

EDIT: added:He uses the same chargers you use, and has a 144v system
Last edited by antiscab on Sun, 03 May 2009, 22:19, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by a4x4kiwi » Thu, 07 May 2009, 06:48

Charging efficiency, or lack thereof can not be underestimated.

I have traveled 820km and seem to have averaged 418wh/km wall to wheels. This is so high I question my kWh meter.

This is way higher than i expected. I guess lead acid batteries and cheap chargers have some drawbacks.
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Post by Richo » Fri, 08 May 2009, 00:28

Hey Simon any ideas what the peak power use is when driving?
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Post by Simon » Fri, 08 May 2009, 21:29

Hi Richo.
Not too sure what the peak power use is. Im getting a Paktrakr with a current sensor so will know then. Currently only a volt meter and motor amps gauge installed.
Hard acceleration pins the amp meter to 500+amps for a second or so and the batteries V sag to around 90v I think.
The chargers Im using now dont seem to use much power in float.
0.58kwh after 13hours on float.
I thought the wh/km was pretty good till I saw Bruce's MightyBoy that gets 88wh/km or 105wh/km driven hard! Hmmm maybe those numbers are not "at the wall".
Last edited by Simon on Fri, 08 May 2009, 11:45, edited 1 time in total.

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Post by Richo » Sat, 09 May 2009, 00:28

So that would be 45+kW as an approximation.
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Post by Simon » Sun, 19 Jul 2009, 02:29

Good news.
I mentioned to a couple of people at the last AEVA Perth meeting that some of my Optima D34's were failing. It turns out that a couple of the Paktrakr sensor wires were loose giving some false battery voltage readings.
Did a test drive today after crimping the offending Paktrakr wires.
Connected a seperate voltmeter to battery no3 and went for a very conservative 5km drive pulling under 100 battery amps. No3 seemed OK not sagging any more than the average. So after 5km I floored it (peak 550+ battery amps) and No3 sagged to just above 10V.
Still a bit worried though as pack voltage has sagged on previous tests to 88v(96v pack) with conservative acceleration after 10km on a cold day. Just the colder weather maybe?
Now just gotta fix the weeping brake hose, etc, etc, etc!     Image

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Post by Simon » Mon, 12 Oct 2009, 01:11

Well this a way overdue update but I finally fixed my brake hose (low pressure supply line from the remote reservoir) This is about the 3rd time I have replaced this hose and finally got something that lasts more than a couple of weeks before it starts weeping! Image Argghh!!!

It turns out that I did have a weak battery after all (under 30% capacity of a new battery) and have replaced it now.

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Post by Simon » Mon, 12 Oct 2009, 01:22

I thought better add some pictures...

Image
Front boot with new chargers and battery covers


Image
Under seat battery chargers


Image
Rear battery box


Image
"Motor" bay

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Post by acmotor » Mon, 12 Oct 2009, 03:43

Looking good Simon !!

Boxes, conduits, enclosures !

Are you able to tidy the wiring inside the rear battery box, or was that an in progesss pic ?

Some HAZV warning labels on the enclosures (saying danger HAZV inside) and it will be new revision NCOP14 ready !
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Post by Simon » Tue, 10 Nov 2009, 23:27

Thanks Acmotor. Sorry I took sooo long to reply to my own thread. Image
The wiring inside the battery box is what it currently looks like.
Here are some better photos:
Looking left
Image


Center
Image


Right
Image

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Post by Richo » Wed, 11 Nov 2009, 01:29

Can I ask since there is so much room left in the engine bay why not put the batteries there rather than the rear seat?
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Post by Simon » Wed, 11 Nov 2009, 06:23

For a couple of reasons.
There is not as much room in the engine bay as it may appear. 2 batteries would fit easily, maybe 4 could be squeezed in (one layer). To fit all 6 from rear seat battery box would mean 2 layers so the lower Center of Gravity benefit would not be as great.   
Also most of the battery weight would then be "outboard" of the rear axles which is bad for handling as I understand it.
I did think about sinking battery boxes into floorpan but would only fit 2 batteries under the floor each in seperate boxes..
And the rear seat could not be used for passengers because of gross vehicle weight limit.
So in the end it was easier and simpler to just stick em on the rear seat.

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